Knitting Pattern Assumptions
Pattern Assumptions
Many knitting patterns are written so that any knitter can read them. But in the process of writing a pattern, the author probably also has a limited space in which to fit all the details of the pattern. While some patterns write out more information that you probably need, this too can be confusing for knitters with limited knowledge.
Here I'm going to tell you about many of the assumptions the knitting pattern writer has made when writing a knitting pattern, so that you don't get confused when you run into a highly condensed, or overly verbose patterns.
Many knitting patterns are written so that any knitter can read them. But in the process of writing a pattern, the author probably also has a limited space in which to fit all the details of the pattern. While some patterns write out more information that you probably need, this too can be confusing for knitters with limited knowledge.
Here I'm going to tell you about many of the assumptions the knitting pattern writer has made when writing a knitting pattern, so that you don't get confused when you run into a highly condensed, or overly verbose patterns.
Gauge
Gauge is often listed in stitches and rows such as '20 sts and 22 rows over 4 inches (10 cm)'. This translates to 5 sts per inch (since 20 sts/4 in = 5 sts/in). The proper way to measure your gauge is to knit up a gauge swatch and measure it in several places to get an average gauge. It doesn't necessarily mean that a 4 in square will contain the number of stitches specified. Click Here To See A Video Of How To Measure Gauge.
Sometimes only the stitches are given = '20 sts over 4 inches'.
Unless your pattern contains lots of instructions that tell you to work 'until piece measures <some> length', you don't need to worry about the number of rows in the gauge.
Hopefully the stitch pattern you are supposed to gauge in is given, i.e. '20 sts in 2x2 ribbing'. But if no pattern is given, assume gauge should be done in stockinette stitch.
Slipping Stitches
Often a pattern will tell you to 'slip' some amount of stitches. If they do not specify: 'slip as if to knit' or 'slip as if to purl' the assumption is to slip as if to purl.
To slip as if to purl, slide the stitch straight across from left hand needle to right, inserting the right hand needle into the stitch as if you were going to perform a purl stitch, and then slipping it off the left hand needle.
Repeats
There are many ways of describing repeats in a pattern. They may use:
Often the pattern may not indicate that the instruction is a repeat, but it might give you certain clues. If the instruction says '(k1, p2) twice' or [k1, k2tog]x2 then you'll know that you've found a repeat section.
The other kind of repeating in a pattern isn't just of stitches in a row (as the previous example) but of repeating several rows or sections.
This will often read as: ' Repeat the last two rows, 7 more times' . In this case, you'll complete 14 more rows, since 2x7=14.
Measuring
When a pattern says 'work until piece measures 10 inches', or however long, unless the pattern specifies otherwise, the assumption is to measure from the needles to the cast on edge of the work.
Alternatively, when working a pattern that is done in pieces (i.e. a sweater with a front, back, sleeves, etc), it may specify that the armhole should measure X inches. In that case, you'd only measure from where you began the armhole instruction.
Cast on/ Bind off
Sometimes your pattern will tell you to 'cast on loosely', or 'bind off loosely'. If you aren't already familiar with a loose way of doing the cast on or bind off, or if you are a particularly tight knitter, then this direction is especially directed at you. For a loose cast on, you may go up a couple of needle sizes for your cast on. To bind off loosely, you can also go up a couple of needle sizes. You can also try allowing some extra yarn to come thru when you make your stitches in order for them to be very, very loose. If this is a challenge for you, go up several needle sizes.
When beginning a pattern, the Cast On does NOT count as the first row! (Unless the pattern says otherwise explicitly)
Finishing Loose Ends
Often at the end of a decrease hat you might find the instruction: 'pull needle through remaining stitches'. What this means is to thread the end of your yarn onto a yarn needle, and insert that needle through all the of remaining live stitches on your knitting needle. You can start at either end, whichever is easier. Be sure to leave some extra length to weave in to ensure it is secure.
Extra instructions - Verbose patterns
Sometimes a pattern writer will go into more detail than usual to describe something you need to do in your knitting. While sometimes this can be helpful, since they are actually trying to explain the task at hand, it can also be confusing to beginners. I've frequently been asked by less experienced knitters 'What does this whole section mean?' and they point to a lengthy explanation of a part of a pattern, sometimes written in parentheses on the pattern.
The advice here is: if you already know what you are supposed to do in the pattern, you can ignore this extra instruction.
Gauge is often listed in stitches and rows such as '20 sts and 22 rows over 4 inches (10 cm)'. This translates to 5 sts per inch (since 20 sts/4 in = 5 sts/in). The proper way to measure your gauge is to knit up a gauge swatch and measure it in several places to get an average gauge. It doesn't necessarily mean that a 4 in square will contain the number of stitches specified. Click Here To See A Video Of How To Measure Gauge.
Sometimes only the stitches are given = '20 sts over 4 inches'.
Unless your pattern contains lots of instructions that tell you to work 'until piece measures <some> length', you don't need to worry about the number of rows in the gauge.
Hopefully the stitch pattern you are supposed to gauge in is given, i.e. '20 sts in 2x2 ribbing'. But if no pattern is given, assume gauge should be done in stockinette stitch.
Slipping Stitches
Often a pattern will tell you to 'slip' some amount of stitches. If they do not specify: 'slip as if to knit' or 'slip as if to purl' the assumption is to slip as if to purl.
To slip as if to purl, slide the stitch straight across from left hand needle to right, inserting the right hand needle into the stitch as if you were going to perform a purl stitch, and then slipping it off the left hand needle.
Repeats
There are many ways of describing repeats in a pattern. They may use:
- parentheses '( some knitting instruction to repeat )',
- brackets '[ knitting instruction to repeat ]',
- asterisks ' * k2, p1 *, repeat from * to * '
- or some other repeat symbol.
Often the pattern may not indicate that the instruction is a repeat, but it might give you certain clues. If the instruction says '(k1, p2) twice' or [k1, k2tog]x2 then you'll know that you've found a repeat section.
The other kind of repeating in a pattern isn't just of stitches in a row (as the previous example) but of repeating several rows or sections.
This will often read as: ' Repeat the last two rows, 7 more times' . In this case, you'll complete 14 more rows, since 2x7=14.
Measuring
When a pattern says 'work until piece measures 10 inches', or however long, unless the pattern specifies otherwise, the assumption is to measure from the needles to the cast on edge of the work.
Alternatively, when working a pattern that is done in pieces (i.e. a sweater with a front, back, sleeves, etc), it may specify that the armhole should measure X inches. In that case, you'd only measure from where you began the armhole instruction.
Cast on/ Bind off
Sometimes your pattern will tell you to 'cast on loosely', or 'bind off loosely'. If you aren't already familiar with a loose way of doing the cast on or bind off, or if you are a particularly tight knitter, then this direction is especially directed at you. For a loose cast on, you may go up a couple of needle sizes for your cast on. To bind off loosely, you can also go up a couple of needle sizes. You can also try allowing some extra yarn to come thru when you make your stitches in order for them to be very, very loose. If this is a challenge for you, go up several needle sizes.
When beginning a pattern, the Cast On does NOT count as the first row! (Unless the pattern says otherwise explicitly)
Finishing Loose Ends
Often at the end of a decrease hat you might find the instruction: 'pull needle through remaining stitches'. What this means is to thread the end of your yarn onto a yarn needle, and insert that needle through all the of remaining live stitches on your knitting needle. You can start at either end, whichever is easier. Be sure to leave some extra length to weave in to ensure it is secure.
Extra instructions - Verbose patterns
Sometimes a pattern writer will go into more detail than usual to describe something you need to do in your knitting. While sometimes this can be helpful, since they are actually trying to explain the task at hand, it can also be confusing to beginners. I've frequently been asked by less experienced knitters 'What does this whole section mean?' and they point to a lengthy explanation of a part of a pattern, sometimes written in parentheses on the pattern.
The advice here is: if you already know what you are supposed to do in the pattern, you can ignore this extra instruction.
